pricing

In Conversation: Jaume Miquel Naudí, Tendam

The consumer wants to pay less. That is mathematics, not strategy.

Jaume Miquel Naudí, Chairman & CEO, Tendam · recorded at the World Retail Congress, Berlin 2026.

Ask a retail chief executive what all their fragmented, unpredictable, endlessly-segmented consumers still have in common, and most will reach for a trend. Jaume Miquel Naudí reaches for arithmetic. “They want to pay less. That’s mathematics.” You can do whatever you want, he says, but the number bends one way.

Miquel is Chairman and CEO of Tendam, the Spanish fashion group whose loyalty clubs count more than 27 million members. That last figure is not a footnote. It is the whole thesis.

He frames the next few years as a film with all the spicy elements: fear, tension over pricing, the eruption of AI, and consumers seeking truth. But the discipline underneath the drama is where the value sits. Loyalty clubs are 75 per cent of Tendam’s business, so that is where the money goes. Not cost savings, which he will take but does not prize. Investment in what makes the business different: consumer behaviour, personalisation, pricing. On technology he refuses the single big bet, running instead a pyramid: infrastructure at the base, some 25 quick wins in the middle to keep the organisation excited, and the strategic projects on CRM, demand forecasting and margin optimisation whose payback comes later. “Momentum is important,” he says, and he means it as an operating principle, not a mood.

Then the human turn. Push everything to pure science, he warns, and you land in a world of one product, one car, one microchip. The job is to serve the dream as well as the infrastructure.

For any brand owner, the lesson is uncomfortable and clarifying. Know your one consumer, forget the rest, and earn the right to charge for the dream by first being true.

The Roth Read. If your customer wants to pay less and buy less, price is not your problem to solve, it is the condition you build inside. Decide today which one difference justifies your margin. If you cannot name it, your shopper already has: it is the price.

David Roth In Conversation is a series of conversations with the leaders shaping the future of retail, recorded at the World Retail Congress, Berlin 2026 in association with the World Retail Congress. A new conversation is published every Friday.

First cheap goods, now cheap intelligence. The playbook has not changed.

Temu did it to your wardrobe. Shein did it to your fast fashion budget. Now the same promise is being made about the machine that answers your questions, and the West is once again surprised by a move it has watched happen twice already.

The observation came from the investor Juan Gonzales on X this week, and it is worth repeating because it is so plain. “When Chinese platforms offer a simple promise · we will charge you less · consumers use them,” he wrote. First it was Temu and Shein for physical goods. Now it is DeepSeek, Alibaba’s Qwen and Moonshot’s Kimi for artificial intelligence. His verdict: “It’s not consumer betrayal. It’s basic economics.”

He is right, and the timing is not a coincidence. Over the weekend, as Ben Thompson noted at Stratechery, another open weights model out of China, Kimi K3, approached the state of the art and was argued over for days. Not because it was better than everything in the West, but because it was nearly as good and effectively free to download. The debate was not about capability. It was about price.

This is the same experiment run in a new laboratory, and Western retail should recognise the equipment. The mechanism that made Temu and Shein hard to counter was never a single clever trick. It was structural: manufacture close to source, iterate at speed, price at a level that made the incumbent’s margin look like an insult, and let the consumer do the rest. The product did not have to be the best. It had to be good enough, and cheaper by an amount the shopper could feel.

Apply that to intelligence and the discomfort sharpens. A Western brand could tell itself that Shein was about corners cut and quality lost, a race to the bottom that premium players need not join. That story is harder to tell about a model you can inspect, run yourself and improve. Open weights change the argument. The Chinese labs are not undercutting on quality alone; they are handing the tool over and betting that ubiquity beats exclusivity. Give the capability away, own the standard, monetise the next thing. It is the marketplace logic that built Alibaba, pointed at software.

Here is what the West keeps getting wrong. It treats each of these moves as a separate shock, a bad weekend, a policy problem. It is not. It is one consistent strategy applied to whatever category is next. Goods, then fashion, then intelligence. The category changes. The playbook does not. And a rival who runs the same play three times is not lucky. He is disciplined.

For the retailer and the brand, the lesson is not about AI models at all. It is about what happens to any business whose entire defence is that the customer will pay more for the familiar name. Temu tested that assumption on price and found it thinner than anyone admitted. The consumer, it turns out, is loyal right up to the moment the brand attributes start slipping on worth paying more for and the maths stops making sense. That is not betrayal. Its a lethal cocktail of declining brand value and arithmetic, and it does not care how long you have been on the shelf.

What to watch. Watch whether Western brands start building on these open Chinese models quietly, the way they already sell through Chinese factories quietly. The tell will not be a press release. It will be a product that suddenly costs less to run and nobody explaining why. When your supplier of intelligence is the same country as your supplier of goods, the dependency is no longer a talking point. It is the plumbing.

The Roth Read. Stop asking whether the Chinese model is as good as yours. Ask what your customer does the day the brand and the product it is good enough and free, because that is the only day that decides anything. If your whole moat is that people are used to paying you more, you do not have a moat. You have a habit, and habits are the cheapest thing in the world to break.